This winter, I decided to make the most of my final semester at university by joining the sports program. The plan: four days of cross-country skiing in Pontresina, followed by three days of downhill in St. Moritz. Little did I know how many memorable experiences could fit into just one week!
Days in Pontresina (January 20–23)
Day 1 (Monday, January 20)
Early Arrival & Check-In
I arrived in Pontresina around 11:00 a.m., an hour before our official group meeting at noon. We were staying at a convenient youth hostel right next to the train station—and, even better, only steps away from the loipe (cross-country track).
Cross-Country Gear Setup
After settling in, I headed to the rental service located in the same building. Having sent my measurements beforehand, I was quickly fitted with Fischer boots in size 44, skis measuring about 192 cm, and poles measuring about 165 cm.
First Group Gathering
Around noon, the rest of the university group arrived by train. We had lunch together, got our bearings, and prepared for our first cross-country session at 2:00 p.m. Since it was my very first time on cross-country skis, I joined the beginners.
Evening Activity—Swimming Only
After a few hours of introductory exercises on the loipe, I’d done enough physical activity for the day. In the evening, I went for a swim at the nearby pool in Pontresina’s center with some colleagues. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the hostel, but well worth it after a day in the snow.
Day 2 (Tuesday, January 21)
Morning Yoga & More Cross-Country
The university offered a morning yoga session, which I found really helpful for easing any soreness from Day 1. After breakfast, we continued practicing cross-country technique, focusing on skating and balance drills.
Technique Progress
By the afternoon, I was already feeling more comfortable on my skis. We ventured farther along the loipe, soaking in the scenic views of the Engadin Valley. I realized my prior downhill skiing experience gave me a slight advantage in picking up the cross-country style.
Day 3 (Wednesday, January 22)
Yoga, 17 km to S-chanf & Evening Sauna
Another early yoga session kicked off the day, followed by more cross-country exercises. Groups were formed based on speed, and I ended up skiing about 17 kilometers down the valley toward a place called S-chanf. We surprisingly made it there in around two hours—it was thrilling to see our rapid improvement!
Recovery: Swim & Sauna
After returning, a few of us went to the swimming pool again, and this time we also hit the sauna. My muscles felt grateful for the heat and relaxation.
Day 4 (Thursday, January 23)
Refining Technique & Last Day of Camp
On Thursday, the university’s official cross-country program ended. That morning was particularly enlightening, as I realized I’d picked up a few incorrect habits. Our instructor gave me tips that dramatically improved my posture and glide.
Exploring Morteratsch
In the afternoon, with some free time on my hands, I joined a smaller group to ski up toward Morteratsch and then back down to Pontresina. It felt fantastic to see my progress over just four days!
Gear Inquiry & Transition to St. Moritz
Since I was enjoying cross-country so much, I asked the rental shop about buying used (occasion) gear, but unfortunately, they had none available. With that, I packed my bags and headed off to the second part of my adventure in St. Moritz.
Days in St. Moritz (January 24–26)
Day 5 (Friday, January 24) – Corviglia & Night Skiing at Corvatsch
Switch to Downhill at Corviglia
After four days of cross-country, I was thrilled to transition to downhill. Friday morning greeted me with perfect weather at Corviglia—freshly groomed pistes and fewer people than on a typical weekend. Corviglia is known for its wide variety of runs, stunning panoramic views, and convenient access directly from St. Moritz, making it a favorite among both intermediates and experts.
A Kind Gesture from a New Friend
Back at the hostel that evening, I met a really nice traveler from China. He had a ski ticket for night skiing at Corvatsch but decided not to go. Generously, he handed me his ticket—an offer I couldn’t refuse! After dinner, I headed straight to Corvatsch for a magical night-skiing session. Corvatsch is famous for having one of Europe’s highest night-skiing slopes and offers more challenging terrain as well. Gliding under the lights in near solitude was unforgettable, and I racked up over 100 km of skiing that day—a personal record. I think I skied about 11 hours in total!
Day 6 (Saturday, January 25) – Weather Shifts & Corvatsch Day
Changing Plans
My original plan was to return to Corviglia, but the weather on that side of the valley turned slightly cloudy. I decided instead to spend the entire day at Corvatsch, which proved to be a great choice. The skies there were perfectly sunny, and I had another fantastic day tackling Corvatsch’s varied slopes.
Exploring St. Moritz Town
After finishing on the slopes, I took some time in the evening to wander around St. Moritz—famous for its luxury boutiques, a scenic frozen lake, and vibrant nightlife. Although it was interesting to see a side of life with fur coats and older men accompanied by younger women, I felt a bit out of place. After about an hour, I’d seen enough and returned to the hostel. I ended up chatting with a U.S. firefighter who had an IKON ski pass valid at many resorts worldwide, which was fascinating to learn about.
Day 7 (Sunday, January 26) – Polo on Ice & Diavolezza
Morning Encounter & Polo
Over breakfast, I met a German traveler, and we decided to check out the Snow Polo World Cup on the frozen lake of St. Moritz. By accident, we entered the venue from the back and found ourselves in the VIP section! We chatted with some horse trainers, who explained that the polo ponies were flown in from Argentina and rented by the players. Each horse can be worth between 100,000 and 200,000 Swiss francs—a staggering figure.
- Snow Polo Background: St. Moritz is renowned for hosting the world’s first and most prestigious snow polo tournament, which has been held annually since 1985. It draws top teams, international celebrities, and thousands of spectators for a truly one-of-a-kind sporting event in this alpine paradise.
Off to Diavolezza
After the polo match, my friend wanted to try snowkiting, while I headed toward Diavolezza for one last ski session. Diavolezza is known for its incredible glacier runs, off-piste opportunities, and fewer crowds—perfect for a more adventurous experience. Around 20–30 cm of fresh snow had fallen, and the sun was shining again, making it ideal for some off-piste fun. To my surprise, the slopes were practically empty. I took the final gondola at around 5:00 p.m., all by myself in a huge cabin, and made my way home soon afterward.
Final Thoughts and Resort Highlights
- Pontresina: Ideal for cross-country enthusiasts, with a loipe right on its doorstep. The youth hostel’s location next to the train station is incredibly convenient.
- Corviglia (St. Moritz): Famous for its stunning panorama, well-groomed pistes, and a wide range of slopes accessible directly from town.
- Corvatsch: Renowned for high-altitude night skiing and a more challenging terrain. The sunny slopes can be a great alternative when other areas are cloudy.
- Diavolezza: A paradise for off-piste and glacier skiing, offering quieter runs and a dramatic alpine backdrop.
St. Moritz itself is a luxurious destination known for upscale shopping, five-star hotels, and prestigious winter events. The Snow Polo World Cup stands out as a unique spectacle, bringing together sports and glamour on the frozen lake each year.
Overall, my week in the Engadin—combining four days of cross-country in Pontresina with three days of downhill in St. Moritz—was an incredible way to celebrate the end of my university days. If you’re looking for diverse winter sports, breathtaking scenery, and an unforgettable cultural experience, this region should be at the top of your list!
