Some places just stay with you. St. Moritz, in the Swiss Alps, is one of those. In February 2025, I took a long weekend trip there with my brother, from the 14th to the 16th, and it was a whirlwind of perfect snow, adrenaline-pumping speeds, and a horse racing spectacle unlike anything I’d ever seen. This wasn’t just any ski trip; it was a dive into the heart of winter sports history, a taste of high-society glamour, and a reminder that even in the most meticulously planned events, a little bit of wildness can break through. We spent our days carving down the legendary slopes of Corviglia and our Sunday amidst the unique thrill of the White Turf races on the frozen lake. Let me take you along for the ride…
Day 1: Chains, Sunshine, and a Canadian Pilot
Our adventure started before dawn on Friday, February 14th, with a 5:30 AM departure from Edlibach. The remnants of the previous night’s snowfall lingered in the air, but we were making good time. That is, until we approached the Julier Pass, where the road transformed into a pristine sheet of white. Time for the snow chains! I’ve become something of a snow-chain ninja, and I had both sides securely fastened in a matter of minutes. A couple of other drivers, struggling with their own chains nearby, watched with visible envy – they were still wrestling with the first wheel as we were ready to go.
With the chains providing the necessary grip, we conquered the Julier Pass and arrived at the Signalbahn in St. Moritz around 8:30 AM, bathed in glorious sunshine. It was a fantastic day on Corviglia, with hardly any crowds. The slopes were pristine, the views were breathtaking, and we really made the most of the almost empty runs. We carved our way down the mountain, enjoying the crisp air and the feeling of freedom. We called it quits around 4 PM and headed to our hostel.
That evening, we explored St. Moritz Dorf and met a Canadian pilot. We joined him for a pub crawl, eventually ending up at the “Stübli” in St. Moritz, where, for some reason, smoking was allowed. We headed back to the hostel around midnight, while our new Canadian friend continued the party.
Interesting Fact about St. Moritz: St. Moritz is one of the oldest winter sports resorts in the world! It hosted the Winter Olympics twice, in 1928 and 1948, solidifying its place as a premier winter destination.
Day 2: More Corviglia Magic and a Relaxing Swim
Saturday started early again with breakfast at 7 AM. By 8:30 AM, we were back at the Signalbahn, ready for another day of amazing skiing on Corviglia. There were a few more people on the slopes, being a Saturday, but it was still fantastic. We explored some different runs, challenged ourselves on some steeper slopes, and just generally soaked up the incredible atmosphere. In the evening, we hit the swimming pool, relaxed a bit, and I gave my brother some swimming tips. It was the perfect way to unwind after a day on the mountain.
Day 3: Cross-Country, White Turf, and Equine Escapades
Sunday was race day at the White Turf, but the races didn’t start until 11:30 AM. So, I decided to squeeze in some cross-country skiing! I hit the trails from 8:15 AM to about 11 AM, covering over 25km. It was glorious, and I barely noticed the -15°C (5°F) temperatures… though my beard practically froze! The trails were beautifully groomed, and the scenery was stunning. It was a fantastic way to start the day.
After my cross-country adventure, I met up with my brother at the hostel lobby, and we headed to the White Turf. We paid 25 CHF for standing room tickets and were astonished by the crowds. It was packed, with at least three rows of people lining the track. Being a bit taller, I could at least see something. By the second race, we’d managed to find better spots.
The White Turf is a truly unique event. It’s a series of horse races held on the frozen lake of St. Moritz. The atmosphere is electric, with a mix of high society, racing enthusiasts, and curious tourists like us.
Here’s the program for the races on Sunday, 16. February 2025, 3. Race Sunday 2025:
- 11:30: Trotting Race – Price Genesis – 1’700 m – CHF 10’000.-
- 12:05: Flat Race – GP Guardaval Real Estate La Punt Chamues-ch – 1’300 m – CHF 25’000.-
- 12:50: Flat Race – Evangelos Pistiolis Foundation 84. Grand Prix of St. Moritz – 2’000 m – CHF 100’000.-
- 13:30: Skijöring – Grand Prix UBS – 2’700 m – CHF 20’000.-
- 14:10: Trotting Race – Grand Prix Pontresina in cooperation with Hotel Walther Pontresina – 1’700 m – CHF 25’000.-
- 14:45: Flat race – Price Sport Mind – 1,800m- CHF 10’000.-
The races include different disciplines:
- Trotting Race (Traben): Horses pull a small, light sled with a driver. It’s not a two-wheeled cart (sulky) in this particular setting on the ice.
- Flat Race (Galopprennen): A traditional horse race with jockeys riding on the horses’ backs.
- Skijöring: This is the most unique (and, in my opinion, craziest!) event. Skiers are pulled by riderless horses at high speeds across the snow and ice.
Interesting Fact about Corviglia: Corviglia is St. Moritz’s “house mountain” and offers over 100km of perfectly groomed pistes. It’s known for its sunny slopes and stunning views, and it’s directly accessible from St. Moritz Dorf.
Interesting Fact about White Turf: The White Turf races have been held annually since 1907! It’s a major social event, attracting a glamorous crowd and significant prize money. It’s a unique spectacle, combining the thrill of horse racing with the beauty of the frozen lake and the surrounding mountains.
The fourth race, the Skijöring, was where the real action started! From the start, it looked incredibly risky to me. The speed at which the horses and skiers travel is breathtaking, but also a little terrifying. I couldn’t imagine what would happen if the skiers lost their grip – they’d be dragged along! And sure enough, something went wrong. All but one of the skiers let go, leaving the horses to run wild. They couldn’t be stopped and continued racing around the track for about half an hour, having their own private competition long after the official race was over! It was quite a sight to behold – both exhilarating and a little concerning.
After that, we’d seen enough of the White Turf for one day. My brother and I decided to head home. We chatted again with a friend I’d met on a previous trip to St. Moritz, and then began our journey back.
My Brother’s Verdict vs. Mine
My brother really enjoyed the races, especially the excitement and the unique atmosphere of the White Turf. For me, honestly, it was a bit slow-paced. The races themselves only last a minute or two, and then there’s a 40-minute break. Nevertheless, it’s definitely an experience worth having, especially if you’ve never seen anything like it before!
Final Thoughts
St. Moritz delivered another unforgettable weekend. From the thrill of the slopes on Corviglia to the spectacle (and slight absurdity) of the White Turf, it was a trip filled with contrasts and unforgettable moments. If you’re looking for a winter getaway that combines world-class skiing with a unique cultural experience, St. Moritz should definitely be on your list!
