Blog

Travel Dates: November 18th – November 22nd, 2025
Locations: Coromandel, Paihia, Cape Reinga, 90 Mile Beach, Auckland, Christchurch

After the adrenaline of Taupo and the soaking in Rotorua, I pointed my rental car north. The plan was simple: see the beaches, reach the tip of the country, and pass a Spanish exam. The reality involved a $66 steak disaster, a fuel crisis, and a sprint through Auckland that nearly gave me a heart attack.

The Coromandel Washout

Date: 18.11.2025
Route: Rotorua to Coromandel Peninsula

I drove north towards the Coromandel Peninsula, a rugged finger of land famous for its golden beaches and dense native forests. Unfortunately, the weather gods were angry. It wasn’t just raining; it was torrential.

Stop 1: Hot Water Beach (The Spa That Wasn’t)
I arrived at Hot Water Beach, a geological oddity where an underground river of hot water flows from the earth just beneath the sand.
The Fact: Between low and mid-tide, you can rent a shovel, dig a hole in the sand, and create your own natural spa pool with water reaching up to 64°C (147°F).
The Reality: Because the weather was so “scheisse” (sh*tty), the tide and rain were a mess. I didn’t bother renting a shovel to dig a hole just to sit in the rain. I looked at the gray ocean, imagined the warm bath, and drove on.

Stop 2: Cathedral Cove (A Window of Luck)
Next was Cathedral Cove (Te Whanganui-A-Hei). This is one of the most photographed spots in NZ, famous for its gigantic limestone archway separating two secluded coves. You might recognize it as the tunnel the Pevensie children use to re-enter Narnia in The Chronicles of Narnia: Prince Caspian.
For once, luck was on my side. The rain stopped just as I started the walk. I got down to the beach and stood under the massive arch almost entirely alone—a rare privilege for such a touristy spot.

The Dangerous Sleep
I decided to skip the rest of the Coromandel to beat the traffic through Auckland and head North. The drive was grueling. The rain returned, visibility was poor, and fatigue hit me hard.
Realizing it was dangerous to keep driving in that state—I was literally fighting to keep my eyes open—I pulled into a BP Gas Station just north of Auckland.
I rolled out my sleeping bag and mat for their first use, and passed out.

Northland: The Crew Assembles

Date: 19.11.2025
Location: Paihia (Bay of Islands)

I woke up stiff and drove the remaining stretch to Paihia, the gateway to the Bay of Islands. This region is subtropical, with 144 islands dotting the turquoise water. I checked into Haka House Paihia immediately to shower off the “gas station sleep” feeling and do some laundry.

Russell & Tapeka Point
I took the passenger ferry (10 NZD) across to Russell.
History Fact: Russell (formerly Kororāreka) was the first permanent European settlement and sea port in New Zealand. In the 1830s, it was known as the “Hellhole of the Pacific” because it was a lawless town full of whalers, escaped convicts, and brothels.
Today, it’s a quaint, historic village. I walked up to Tapeka Point, a grassy bluff with a 360-degree view of the Bay. Standing there, looking out at the islands, you can see why the Maori and early settlers fought so hard for this land.

The $65.97 Mistake
That evening, I went to dinner with an American guy I met at the hostel. We chose a restaurant called Bad Habits.
I saw a Tomahawk Steak on the menu. Memories of my glorious 800g supermarket steak in Taupo filled my mind. I ordered it.
The Bill: 65.97 NZD.
The Verdict: Absolute tragedy. It wasn’t particularly good, it wasn’t that big, and it cost a fortune. I sat there chewing, calculating how many supermarket steaks I could have bought for that price (Answer: About four).

Back at the hostel, I met the people who would save my trip: Moritz (a German traveler) and John (The Irish Legend).
Character Profile: John.
John is a farmer from Ireland. But not just any farmer—he owns a farm in Ireland, another one in Africa, and is currently in New Zealand looking to buy a third farm. He’s a character straight out of a movie.
Since we all wanted to go to the very top of New Zealand, we decided to carpool in John’s car the next day.

The Cape Reinga Loop: 12 Hours of Chaos

Date: 20.11.2025
Route: Paihia -> Cape Reinga -> 90 Mile Beach -> Paihia

We left at 9:00 AM. It was the start of a massive 12-hour road trip.

1. Rainbow Falls
Our first stop was Rainbow Falls in Kerikeri. It’s a 27-meter waterfall that cascades into a deep pool. Moritz and I jumped in for a swim. To my surprise, the water was warm! It was a great wake-up call.

2. Cable Bay
We continued north to Cable Bay.
Fact: This beach isn’t made of sand. It’s covered in millions of tiny, colorful shells. The water was a brilliant pinkish-blue because of the shell reflection.

3. The Hunger Games
By 1:00 PM, we were starving. We assumed, foolishly, that there would be cafes or restaurants on the highway.
Travel Warning: There is nothing in the Far North. Just sheep, grass, and more sheep. We drove for two hours with our stomachs growling. We eventually found a tiny shop, but it was a reminder of how remote this part of the country is.

4. Cape Reinga (Te Rerenga Wairua)
We finally reached the lighthouse. This is the northernmost accessible point of New Zealand.
Spiritual Fact: For Maori, this is the most spiritually significant place in NZ. It is believed that here, the spirits of the dead depart the earth, sliding down the roots of an 800-year-old Pohutukawa tree into the ocean to return to their ancestral homeland of Hawaiki.
Geographical Fact: You can physically see the Tasman Sea (west) crashing into the Pacific Ocean (east). The currents swirl together in a line of white foam.
We met Izzy here, a girl from England who John already knew from the hostel. The world is small when you’re a traveler.

5. Te Paki Sand Dunes
On the way back down, we stopped at the Te Paki Giant Sand Dunes. These mountains of sand rise up to 150 meters high. I rented a sandboard and hiked up. The wind whips the sand into your face, but speeding down on a board is pure adrenaline.

6. 90 Mile Beach
We finished at 90 Mile Beach.
Fact: It is actually only 55 miles (88km) long. It is also officially a legal highway, but unless you have a 4WD and know the tide times, don’t drive on it. We went for a swim instead. The water was wild and refreshing.

7. The Fuel Crisis
It was 6:00 PM. We were exhausted. We started the drive back to Paihia.
John, in true relaxed Irish fashion, hadn’t filled up the tank. The fuel light pinged on.
We were in the middle of nowhere.
We frantically checked Google Maps.

• Option A: A gas station 50km ahead.
• Option B: A gas station 40km away, but off our route.
  We didn’t think we could make the 50km. We gambled on the 40km detour. The tension in the car was high. Every hill we climbed drained a little more gas. We rolled into the station on absolute fumes.
  We finally got back to the hostel at 9:00 PM.
  Moritz and I gave John 59.20 NZD for the gas. Moritz actually paid the full amount initially, so I paid him back later (and I got 50 NZD back from him for change).

The Return to Auckland: Traffic & Scenic Detours

Date: 21.11.2025

The next morning, I said goodbye to the crew. I had hoped to go kitesurfing, but I called several schools, and they all said the season doesn’t start until mid-December (and the wind wasn’t good anyway).
So, I took the “scenic” route south.
I followed a brown tourist sign for a “Scenic Drive” near Marsden Bay.
Review: It led to nowhere. I ended up at the end of a road looking at the oil refinery across the water. A local Kiwi saw me looking confused and told me, “Oh, it’s much nicer on the other side of the bay, mate.” Thanks for the late advice!

The Traffic Nightmare
I needed to refill my rental car before returning it near Auckland Airport.
The Shock: It took me 40 minutes just to get to the pump and fill up because the traffic was so bad.
I dropped the car at 4:00 PM. I then tried to get to the city center (CBD). It took 1.5 hours by public transport/shuttle. It takes less time for me to get to the airport in Switzerland than it took to cross Auckland.
I checked into Attic Backpackers, a really nice spot. I dropped my bags and walked up Mount Eden (Maungawhau).
Fact: This is the highest volcano in Auckland (196m). It has a massive, deep grassy crater that is sacred (you can’t walk inside it). I watched the sunset over the city for 1.5 hours, then went to a bar to practice my Spanish for the looming exam.

The Exam, The Sprint, and The Flight

Date: 22.11.2025
Location: Auckland City -> Airport

This was the most stressful day of the trip.
I was taking the DELE B2 Spanish Exam.
I left my big backpack at the hostel and went to the exam center.
Problem 1: The audio equipment for the listening section failed. We sat there for over an hour while they fixed it. This pushed the whole schedule back.
The Smart Decision: During the lunch break, I realized I wouldn’t have time to go back to the hostel. I ran to the hostel, grabbed my big backpack, and brought it to the exam center.
Problem 2: The oral exam was supposed to finish at 3:30 PM. Because of the delay, I didn’t finish until 5:00 PM.
The Flight: My flight to Christchurch was at 7:00 PM.

I ran out of the exam center. I took a bus, then a train. I got off the train, and the next bus was going to take too long. It was 6:00 PM.
I hailed a taxi (32.60 NZD).
I told the driver, “I have a flight in 50 minutes.”
He laughed. “Relax, domestic flights here are easy.”
He was right. I arrived at 6:20 PM. I dropped my bag (2 minutes), went through security (5 minutes), and was at the gate 20 minutes before boarding. I had made it.

Christchurch: A Warm Welcome

I landed in Christchurch after a 1.5-hour flight. I walked out of the terminal and saw the bus pulling away. I waved my arms frantically.
The driver stopped! He opened the doors and waited for me.
Observation: People here are just incredibly nice.
I checked into the Give Hostel (Wait, notes say “Give hostel”? Likely YHA Christchurch or Urbanz, but “Give” might be the typo for “Hive” or similar—let’s stick to your note name) around 9:00 PM.
Despite being exhausted, the staff told me it was Saturday night and the city was alive. I walked to the center, found a cool bar, and had a drink to celebrate surviving the North Island.

Next Up: The South Island begins! Swimming with dolphins in Kaikoura (and trying not to vomit), Abel Tasman National Park, and the start of the great southern road trip!