Blog

On January 16, 2026, I boarded an Air Baltic flight to Riga. I expected a simple city break to check out a new country. What I got was a mix of technical challenges, freezing winds, fascinating history, and some great conversations with locals.

The Crisis at 30,000 Feet

The trip started with a spike of adrenaline—and not the relaxation kind. Just as I boarded, I realized the hosting contract for one of my websites was expiring, and the migration I had attempted was failing.

To my absolute surprise (and relief), the Air Baltic flight was equipped with internet. I spent the flight in “troubleshooting mode,” frantically working on the problem. I managed to fix the bulk of it in the air, contacting support while cruising over Europe, though I still had a bit of work left for later.

Arrival: The Baltic Chill

We landed in darkness. It was biting cold with an icy wind that cut right through you. I walked to the bus station to catch Bus No. 22.

Travel Tip: The bus runs every 30 minutes. I waited about 20 minutes in the cold with a group of other travelers.

I noticed the stop was swarming with German speakers; flights from Düsseldorf and Vienna had just arrived. My own flight had been half-empty, and unlike them, there were barely any Swiss people on board.

I arrived in the city center and checked into the Naughty Squirrel Backpackers Hostel. This was the only night I had pre-booked, as I wanted to be flexible and test out different accommodations.

Night 1: First Impressions

After a brief chat with an Italian roommate (who went straight to sleep), I was determined to see the city. I followed an AI recommendation and headed to the Rock Café Riga.

The place was half-empty, but I still managed to chat with several people. However, I hit a wall: the language barrier. Many locals didn’t speak English very well, making deep conversation difficult. I called it a night at 3:00 AM.

Day 2: Soviet Ghosts and the Freedom Monument

I slept until 10:30 AM, checked out, and immediately signed up for an 11:00 AM walking tour. Despite the bright sun, the wind remained relentless.

The tour was the highlight of the day. We stopped at St. Peter’s Church (Sv. Pētera baznīca), famous for its towering spire.

• Historical Fact: The guide shared a crazy detail: during the Soviet occupation, there were actually plans to convert this majestic church into a swimming pool!

We also visited the Freedom Monument, which features a woman (affectionately known as “Milda”) holding three gold stars.

• The Real Meaning: The three stars represent the three historical regions of Latvia: Courland, Vidzeme, and Latgale.
• The Soviet Disguise: I learned that during the Soviet occupation, the locals had to rebrand the meaning to save the monument. They claimed the three stars represented the three Baltic Soviet Republics (Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania) being held up by “Mother Russia.” It was a clever lie that saved a national symbol.

Exploring with a Fellow Traveler

On the tour, I met another traveler who was also exploring the city solo. We decided to grab lunch at LIDO, a famous Latvian spot known for its traditional, hearty food.

After lunch, we climbed the tower of St. Peter’s Church. It was freezing up there, but the view was incredible, highlighting the stark contrast between the old town and the Soviet-era brutalist blocks in the distance. We tried to go ice skating at the Akropole mall, but the rink was fully booked, and the queue for the Nativity Cathedral was too long, so we just explored the streets before parting ways.

Getting Work Done

I checked into my next accommodation, Amber Private Rooms. It was just okay—the walls were paper-thin—but it gave me the time I needed to contact support and finally finish the website migration I had started on the plane. It took about three hours, but it was a relief to get it done.

Night 2: Local Insights

At 9:00 PM, I went out solo again. I checked a few bars, but they were quiet. I ended up back at the Rock Café, where I struck up a conversation with two locals.

It was great to meet people who actually lived there. They invited me to check out a few other spots with them. We went to a club called Poseidon Group, which was a bit quiet, and then moved on to the Digital Art House, which had a completely different vibe—packed with people and techno music. It was a fun night seeing the city from a local’s perspective rather than just a tourist’s.

Day 3: Cultural Exchange

The next morning, I checked out by 11:00 AM. I met up with one of the locals again for breakfast at Rocket Bean Cafe.

We spent the afternoon just talking. It was genuinely interesting to hear about life in Latvia compared to Western Europe. We discussed family dynamics, upbringing, and the different social pressures people face here versus back home. It was a deep conversation that gave me a much better understanding of the local culture than any museum could have.

The Goodbye

At around 4:00 PM, we took the bus together back toward the city center before saying goodbye. I checked into my final room at Orange Cat Rooms, spent some time writing down my thoughts on the trip, and went out for a final meal at LIDO before crashing, exhausted.

The Flight Home

I woke up at 4:40 AM for a 7:00 AM flight. In classic fashion, the flight was delayed and didn’t take off until 8:15 AM.