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Alabama Hills: Finding Solitude in Stone Arches

On Saturday morning, October 26th, 2024, my adventure began. I made my way to the Hertz car rental at LAX to swap my company car for something more suitable for the upcoming trip. By 8:20, I was already driving north in my new rental, bound for the first destination: Alabama Hills National Scenic Area.

Alabama Hills is known for its fascinating rock formations, natural arches, and its otherworldly landscapes that have made it popular for film productions. My focus was on two arches in particular: the Mobius Arch and Heart Arch, which can be found nestled among the smooth, rounded granite boulders of this desert landscape. I took a loop trail that lasted about 20 minutes, wandering beneath the iconic Mobius Arch and feeling dwarfed by its graceful curve framing the majestic Sierra Nevada peaks in the distance.

Despite it being a Saturday afternoon, I was entirely alone, walking in complete solitude through the rugged terrain. The silence was mesmerizing, and I had the entire area off the road to myself. I suppose the average American doesn’t enjoy walking as much, and the remote nature of this spot kept the crowds away. For me, it was perfect—just the whispering wind, the crunch of gravel beneath my boots, and an expansive sky.

After visiting the arches, I continued to Onion Valley Campground, my overnight spot and the starting point of my next hike. It was a basic self-service campsite—you simply placed $35 in an envelope with your car license number and campsite information. The price seemed a little steep, considering there wasn’t even running water, but I paid it anyway. Given the elevation at 3,000 meters, the temperatures dropped at night. I decided to sleep in the car to avoid the hassle of setting up the tent, and to have a bit of extra warmth. As I settled in, the crisp mountain air filled the car, hinting at the adventures yet to come.

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