Portland’s Urban Charms & The Majestic Columbia River Gorge

Overview: This installment focuses on the exploration of Portland, Oregon – the “City of Roses” – delving into its renowned food truck culture, iconic literary landmarks, and beautiful gardens offering panoramic city views. The journey then transitions to a collaborative adventure with fellow travelers, embarking on a scenic drive along the Historic Columbia River Highway. This route showcases the geological grandeur of the Columbia River Gorge, with visits to breathtaking waterfalls like Latourell and the majestic Multnomah Falls, before heading towards the slopes of Mount Hood. This post offers insights into Portland’s unique character and the natural wonders of the Gorge.

Day 8 (previous post): Saturday – Portland Immersion: Food Trucks, Literary Havens, and Rose-Tinted Views

Key Locations Visited: Portland food truck pod (specific location not recalled, but likely a major downtown pod like the one at SW 10th & Alder), Powell’s City of Books, International Rose Test Garden, Pittock Mansion.
Activities: City exploration by foot and Nike bike share, interacting with locals.
Food Experience: Cuban sandwich from a food truck.
Overnight Location: Northwestern Hostel, Portland.

After several days of early starts and extensive driving, a leisurely morning was in order, with a wake-up around 11:00 AM. The first objective was to experience Portland’s celebrated food truck scene.

Deep Dive: Portland’s Food Cart (Truck) Culture

A Culinary Institution: Portland is internationally recognized for its vibrant and extensive food cart culture, often considered one of the best in the United States, if not the world. There are estimated to be over 600 food carts operating throughout the city.
“Pods”: Carts are frequently clustered in groups known as “pods,” which can range from a few carts to several dozen, creating bustling outdoor food courts. Some of the largest and most well-known pods are located downtown (e.g., SW 10th & Alder, Cartopia on SE 12th).
Diversity and Innovation: The sheer variety of cuisines is staggering, offering everything from global street food (Thai, Mexican, Korean, Middle Eastern, etc.) to gourmet sandwiches, vegan options, local specialties, and inventive fusion dishes. The relatively low overhead allows chefs to experiment and offer high-quality, affordable food. This culture fosters culinary innovation and entrepreneurship.
Economic and Social Impact: Food carts contribute significantly to Portland’s economy and its reputation as a foodie destination. They also serve as community gathering spaces and reflect the city’s eclectic and independent spirit.

At a prominent food truck pod, a delicious Cuban sandwich was selected for lunch. During this stop, a fortuitous encounter with two friendly locals occurred. One, a professional tour guide, generously provided a detailed list of recommended stops for the planned drive along the Columbia River Gorge the following day.

The next destination was a Portland institution: Powell’s City of Books. This legendary independent bookstore is a paradise for bibliophiles.

Deep Dive: Powell’s City of Books

Scale and Layout: Occupying an entire city block (at 1005 W Burnside St), Powell’s claims to be the largest independent new and used bookstore in the world. It houses an estimated one million books in over 3,500 different sections, spread across multiple floors and color-coded rooms (e.g., the Rose Room, Gold Room, Blue Room).
History: Founded by Walter Powell in 1971. His son, Michael Powell, had started a used bookstore in Chicago; when Michael joined his father in Portland, he integrated new and used books on the same shelves – a practice that became a Powell’s hallmark.
Unique Features: Known for its vast inventory, knowledgeable staff, author events, and the sheer joy of discovery it offers. It sells new, used, rare, and out-of-print books, all shelved together by subject. The store also has its own publishing imprint and a popular coffee shop.
Cultural Icon: Powell’s is more than just a bookstore; it’s a beloved Portland landmark and a major tourist attraction, drawing book lovers from around the globe.

From Powell’s, the journey continued to the International Rose Test Garden, utilizing Portland’s Nike bike share system (Biketown). Nike, the global sportswear giant, has deep roots in Oregon, co-founded by University of Oregon track coach Bill Bowerman and athlete Phil Knight.

Deep Dive: International Rose Test Garden & Nike’s Oregon Connection

International Rose Test Garden:
- Establishment: Founded in 1917 by Jesse A. Currey, an Oregon Journal editor and rose hobbyist. It was created as a safe haven for hybrid roses from Europe during World War I, preventing them from being destroyed by the conflict.
- Purpose & Features: It is the oldest continuously operating public rose test garden in the United States. The garden serves as a testing ground for new rose varieties, sent by hybridizers from around the world. It features over 10,000 rose bushes representing more than 650 varieties. The gardens are laid out in distinct sections, including the Gold Medal Garden, the Royal Rosarian Garden, and the Shakespeare Garden.
- Views: Located in Washington Park, it offers stunning panoramic views of downtown Portland and, on clear days, Mount Hood and the Cascade Range.
Nike and Oregon:
- Origins: Nike began as Blue Ribbon Sports, founded in 1964 by Bill Bowerman and Phil Knight. Knight was a middle-distance runner for Bowerman at the University of Oregon. They initially imported Onitsuka Tiger (now ASICS) running shoes from Japan.
- Innovation: Bowerman famously experimented with shoe designs, including pouring rubber into his wife’s waffle iron to create a new type of sole (the “Waffle” sole), which revolutionized running shoe traction.
- Global Headquarters: Nike’s world headquarters are located in Beaverton, a suburb of Portland. The company has had a profound impact on Oregon’s economy and cultural identity.
- Biketown PDX: Portland’s bike share system, Biketown, features distinctive orange bikes branded with Nike’s swoosh, reflecting the company’s local involvement.

The Rose Garden, with its meticulously maintained beds and fragrant blooms, was a delight. Adjacent is the Portland Japanese Garden (skipped on this occasion but highly renowned for its authenticity and beauty).

The final stop of the day was Pittock Mansion, a 45-minute walk from the Rose Garden, based on the local’s recommendation for the best city views.

Deep Dive: Pittock Mansion

Historical Residence: This 23-room French Renaissance-style château was built between 1909 and 1914 for Henry Pittock, the founder and publisher of The Oregonian newspaper, and his wife, Georgiana Burton Pittock (a key figure in founding the Rose Festival).
Architecture and Technology: Designed by architect Edward T. Foulkes, the mansion was remarkably modern for its time, featuring innovations like an elevator, an internal telephone system, and a central vacuum system.
Public Ownership and Views: The City of Portland purchased the estate in 1964, saving it from demolition. It’s now a public park and museum. Perched 1,000 feet above downtown Portland in the West Hills, its grounds offer unparalleled panoramic views encompassing five Cascade Mountain peaks on clear days: Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Rainier, and Mount Jefferson. The city skyline and the Willamette River are laid out below.

The evening at the hostel involved laundry and connecting with other travelers. A traveler from Nepal and another from India were planning similar routes for the next day. A spontaneous decision was made to travel together then next day in a three-car convoy along the Columbia River Gorge. The Canadian traveler met previously, who was without a car, arranged to join the group, riding with me and then returning to Portland with the Indian traveler, while the Nepalese traveler and I would continue on separate paths after the Gorge. Despite a very loud snorer in the room, a good night’s sleep was achieved.

Day 9: Sunday – Convoy to the Columbia: Waterfalls and Gorge Grandeur

Key Locations Visited: Portland (brief city tour), Historic Columbia River Highway: Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint, Latourell Falls, Multnomah Falls. Attempted visit to Bonneville Lock and Dam.
Activities: Group driving, sightseeing, hiking at Multnomah Falls.
Overnight Location: Free camping spot in Zigzag, at the base of Mount Hood (slept in car).

The morning began with the newly formed group joining a brief city tour of Portland before setting off for the Columbia River Gorge. Traveling as a three-car convoy proved to be a new experience, with coordination challenges slowing progress but fostering camaraderie.

The route followed segments of the Historic Columbia River Highway.

Deep Dive: Historic Columbia River Highway (U.S. Route 30)

America’s First Scenic Highway: Constructed between 1913 and 1922, this was the first paved road in the Pacific Northwest and the first scenic highway in the United States specifically designed with aesthetics and tourism in mind.
Engineering and Vision: Chief engineers Samuel C. Lancaster and Samuel Hill envisioned a road that would complement the natural beauty of the Gorge, incorporating graceful curves, stone masonry guardrails, and arched bridges. It was inspired by the grand scenic roads of Europe.
Key Segments: While parts of the original highway were bypassed or replaced by Interstate 84, significant historic sections remain accessible, particularly between Troutdale and Dodson, and between Mosier and The Dalles. These sections offer access to numerous waterfalls and viewpoints.

Our stops included:

Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic Viewpoint: Located near Corbett, this viewpoint offers one of the most iconic and photographed panoramic vistas of the Columbia River Gorge, looking eastward towards Vista House at Crown Point. It was established by the Portland Women’s Forum, a civic organization dedicated to preserving the Gorge’s beauty.
- Vista House at Crown Point (viewed from a distance): An observatory and rest stop completed in 1918, Vista House is an architectural gem perched atop a sheer cliff, offering commanding views of the Gorge.
Latourell Falls: One of the closest major waterfalls to Portland on the historic highway. It features a dramatic single plunge of 249 feet over a cliff of columnar basalt, often distinguished by the vibrant yellow-green lichen covering the rock face. A short loop trail leads to the base of the falls.
Multnomah Falls: Oregon’s tallest waterfall and one of its most visited natural attractions, with over 2 million visitors annually. This majestic two-tiered waterfall has a total height of 620 feet (upper falls: 542 feet; lower falls: 69 feet; 9-foot drop between tiers).
- Benson Bridge: The picturesque footbridge spanning the lower cascade was built in 1914, funded by timber baron Simon Benson. It allows visitors to get closer to the falls and provides a classic photo opportunity.
- Hiking Trails: A paved trail leads to the Benson Bridge and continues via a series of switchbacks to the top of the upper falls, offering different perspectives.
- Source: The falls are fed by underground springs from Larch Mountain, ensuring year-round flow, though volume varies seasonally.
- Native American Legend: A Yakama Nation legend tells of the falls being created for a princess who desired a secluded place to bathe.

An intended visit to the Bonneville Lock and Dam to see the fish ladders was unsuccessful as it was already closed upon arrival around 7:00 PM.

Deep Dive: Bonneville Lock and Dam

Multipurpose Facility: A major run-of-the-river hydroelectric dam complex on the Columbia River, straddling the border between Oregon and Washington. Construction began in 1933 as a New Deal project.
Power Generation: It provides significant electrical power to the Pacific Northwest.
Navigation Locks: Facilitates barge and ship traffic up and down the Columbia River.
Fish Ladders & Hatcheries: Crucial for anadromous fish migration (salmon, steelhead, sturgeon, lamprey). The dam features multiple fish ladders (like underwater staircases) that allow adult fish to bypass the dam and reach their upstream spawning grounds. The Bonneville Fish Hatchery, located nearby, raises salmon and steelhead. The Bradford Island Visitor Center offers underwater viewing windows into one of the fish ladders, allowing visitors to observe migrating fish.

After Bonneville, the three-car convoy dispersed. The journey continued for me solo south towards Mount Hood. Following a recommendation from a local met at the hostel, a free camping area in the village of Zigzag (located in the Mount Hood Corridor along Highway 26) provided the night’s lodging. Numerous other campers were present. A parking spot was found, and the car became the accommodation for the night. Next Post.