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Lake Argentino: Boat Expedition to Glaciar Upsala and Glaciar Spegazzini

Glaciar Spegazzini boasts the tallest vertical ice walls in the entire El Calafate region, with sheer ice cliffs rising between 80 and 135 meters above the lake surface. Reaching this remote arm of the Southern Patagonian Icefield requires navigating across Lake Argentino, the largest freshwater body in the country, where changeable weather and powerful Patagonian winds can create challenging maritime conditions.

The boat expedition connects Puerto Punta Bandera to the northern fjords of the national park, cruising past immense tabular icebergs detached from Glaciar Upsala before entering the narrow channel of Brazo Spegazzini.

LocationLago Argentino, Los Glaciares National Park, Santa Cruz Province, Argentina
Activity TypeCatamaran Glacial Navigation
DurationFull Day (8 to 9 hours)
Spegazzini Wall Height80 to 135 m above lake surface
Upsala Glacier Surface AreaOver 800 square km
Starting PointPuerto Punta Bandera (47 km west of El Calafate)
Best SeasonOctober to April
Date VisitedJanuary 10, 2022

TRAILHEAD AND PLANNING LOGISTICS

Catamarans depart daily from Puerto Punta Bandera, located 47 kilometers west of El Calafate along Provincial Route 11 and Route 8. Organized tour shuttles and private transfers operate regularly between town hotels and the port. Advance reservations are essential during peak summer travel months from December to February.

The excursion requires purchasing the standard Los Glaciares National Park entry ticket. The cruise operates modern, dual deck catamarans equipped with interior heated seating cabins and exterior observation decks, carrying up to 200 passengers across the vast waters of Lake Argentino.

THE ROUTE AND TRAIL REPORT

Navigating Boca del Diablo: The voyage begins by passing through Boca del Diablo, the narrowest passage on Lake Argentino, measuring less than one kilometer across. This geographic pinch point funnels strong winds and accelerates surface waves between the main body of the lake and the northern branches.

Stormy Crossing on Lake Argentino: On the day of my voyage, conditions were rough and demanding. Lake Argentino developed unusually large swells that continually washed across the bow of the 200 passenger catamaran. The heavy vessel motion caused water to seep through ceiling seams in several interior spots, and roughly a third of the tourists on board experienced severe motion sickness. Having visited numerous glaciers previously, the challenging crossing itself proved to be the most memorable aspect of the journey, demonstrating the raw power of Patagonian weather.

Glaciar Upsala & Iceberg Alley: Entering Brazo Upsala, the catamaran slows to navigate through a dense maze of floating blue icebergs. Glaciar Upsala is a colossal glacier flowing directly from the continental ice cap, shedding icebergs the size of apartment buildings into the turquoise water.

The Towering Cliffs of Spegazzini: Turning into Brazo Spegazzini brings the vessel directly in front of the massive Spegazzini terminal wall. Unlike recessed glaciers, Spegazzini terminates cleanly against steep granite walls, presenting sheer vertical cliffs of blue compression ice with hanging glaciers clinging to the surrounding peaks.

PRACTICAL TIPS AND ESSENTIALS

Motion Sickness Preparation: Because Lake Argentino is subject to strong katabatic winds that produce heavy chop, carrying motion sickness medication is highly recommended for anyone sensitive to boat movement.

Outerwear: Viewing glaciers from the outside deck requires a warm windproof jacket, fleece layer, beanie, and gloves, as downdrafts off the glacial icefields are frigid even in midsummer.

PHOTO GALLERY

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