Sometimes the best adventures are the ones that spring from a spur-of-the-moment decision. Fresh off a Friday afternoon wrapping up work on my Master’s thesis in Valencia (near LA), I saw a golden weather window forecast for Yosemite National Park, a jewel of the Sierra Nevada established on October 1, 1890, to protect its stunning natural granite cliffs, giant sequoia groves, and thundering waterfalls for future generations. Five hours later, I was heading into the legendary valley.
My journey included a pit stop at WinCo, recommended by a colleague for its supposedly “good” bread. Well, let’s just say “good” is a very relative term. While perhaps a step up from Walmart, compared to the incredible bread I’m used to in Switzerland, it was, frankly, pretty dire. That shopping detour cost me some time, so I didn’t roll into Camp 4 until around 10 PM. It was dark, yes, but also illuminated by a near-full moon, which cast an ethereal glow over the valley. My obligatory stop at Tunnel View on the way in was magical under the moonlight, and I even spotted the distant, tiny headlamps of climbers on the sheer face of El Capitan – a truly humbling sight reminding you of the scale of this incredible place that draws millions of visitors annually. Thankfully, the park entrance was unstaffed that late, a small blessing as, in my haste, I’d forgotten my annual National Park Pass at home!
Friday Night: Camper Camaraderie in the Moonlight
Arriving late at Camp 4, a historic walk-in campground (now largely on a lottery system itself for peak season via Site Camp 4, Camp 4 – Recreation.gov) and a hub for climbers and hikers, I found I wasn’t the only one chancing it without a reservation. I quickly found some fellow adventurers who pointed me to an empty bear container spot – my home for the night!
Sleep in the tent, however, wasn’t great that first night. It seems my ability to sleep soundly in a tent has diminished somewhat; I fare much better on a plane, oddly enough!
Saturday: Ranger Realities and the Ascent to Half Dome
I was up by 5 AM, and by 8:30 AM, I attempted to do the “right thing” with the park ranger. My plan to pay the 10 dollar overnight fee and inquire about a spot for the next night didn’t go as smoothly as a similar experience I’d had in October. This ranger was not amused by my unreserved stay and flatly refused my 10 dollar, sternly telling me it wasn’t acceptable.
Other campers I spoke to later had a more, shall we say, “seasoned” approach. They advised me not to worry too much about the rangers, suggesting many people simply arrive after 7 PM, use an empty bear locker if available, and leave before 7 AM, skipping the ranger station altogether. Apparently, in this scenario, being overly honest about wanting to pay can sometimes backfire. A lesson learned, perhaps! So, I packed up my tent, planning to “officially” depart and return later that evening.
With that sorted, it was time for the main event: Half Dome! Parking was a challenge, adding an extra mile walk to the trailhead. I finally started my hike around 9:30 AM, heading up the John Muir Trail and then onto the infamous Mist Trail. “Mist” was an understatement! With the waterfalls thundering at full spring force, it was more like a full-on shower – I was soaked by the time I emerged, as one of my photos can attest! The trail itself, crowded with people, felt like a veritable highway compared to my native Swiss trails. I was surprised by the number of people, many of whom seemed less experienced, yet I was definitely the fastest one out there, overtaking group after group. This iconic granite dome isn’t just a pretty face; it’s a serious challenge.
Crucially, at this time in mid-May, the famous Half Dome cables were down. This meant no permit was required for the ascent. Once the cables are officially ‘up’ (usually around the last week of May, weather permitting), a highly coveted and notoriously difficult-to-obtain permit, secured via a lottery system on Recreation.gov, is absolutely mandatory. So, my timing was lucky!
After the second waterfall, where the John Muir and Mist Trails reconverge, I met Blake. We hit it off immediately, falling into an easy rhythm with a similar pace and plenty to talk about. He’d come from Glacier Point, having camped there the night before. Glacier Point is another iconic Yosemite viewpoint, offering a stunning panorama of Yosemite Valley, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, and the High Sierra. It’s accessible by car in the warmer months (and sometimes by ski/snowshoe in winter) and is a must-see for any visitor, providing an incredible perspective on the valley’s layout.
We got so engrossed in conversation that we actually missed the turn-off for Half Dome and briefly headed towards Clouds Rest! I’d hiked Clouds Rest back in October – it’s often touted as the most beautiful hike in Yosemite, with arguably better panoramic views than Half Dome. Personally, I think both are incredible.
Realizing our error, we backtracked and soon reached the base of the (currently down) Half Dome cables. Even without them being fully “up,” the final ascent is steep and exposed. The wind was whipping around us.
The “Cable” Route (Pre-Season): An Adventure Within an Adventure
Even with the calbes down the route was clear, and there were still plenty of people. Many seemed to have little experience with such steep, exposed granite. Blake and I, working well as a team, made good progress.
The view from the summit? Absolutely breathtaking. Unbelievable. By this point, my legs were screaming, and I even had a few cramps. We soaked it all in for about 45 minutes before starting our descent.
A note on this ascent (and when cables are down):
- Gloves are ESSENTIAL. Even on the bare rock or when cables are present, they save your hands.
- A via ferrata/klettersteig set is highly recommended for safety when cables are down, and can still provide peace of mind on exposed sections if they are up.
- This hike is a VERY strenuous undertaking, covering roughly 30km (around 18.6 miles) round trip. My total time was 9 hours and 45 minutes, including breaks. However, I encountered many people who were on track for 12+ hours. Honestly assess if you can comfortably hike this distance with significant elevation gain. If you’re unsure, it’s better to choose a different trail. The descent, in particular, can be brutal on tired legs. Respect the mountain; sadly, the Half Dome trail sees a few fatalities or serious injuries each year.
Back to Camp (and Slightly Better Sleep)
The descent was thankfully uneventful. We were back at my car a little after 7 PM. Blake headed straight home, while I returned to Camp 4. Lo and behold, the same “bear container” spot was still free, despite the campground officially being “fully booked.” My second night’s sleep was a little better, but still not amazing. I was up by 5:30 AM on Sunday.
Sunday: Solitude at Lower Falls and a Farewell from Glacier Point
By 7 AM, I had everything packed and had eaten breakfast. This early start meant I had the magnificent Lower Yosemite Falls almost entirely to myself – a truly impressive and peaceful experience. I then took a leisurely drive around Yosemite Valley, making various stops, before heading up to Glacier Point myself. From this vantage point, you truly appreciate the scale of the Valley and the granite monoliths that define Yosemite. It offers perhaps the most comprehensive and awe-inspiring overview of iconic landmarks like Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, Vernal Fall, and Nevada Fall. It was the perfect spot for one last, spectacular look at Half Dome from afar. Around 11 AM, it was time to hit the road back to Los Angeles.
Final Thoughts & Tips:
My weekend was a whirlwind, but an incredible one.
- Be Prepared: For Half Dome, this means physical fitness, proper gear (especially gloves!), and understanding the permit system if the cables are up.
- Camping: While I got “lucky” at Camp 4, this is NOT a reliable strategy. The golden rule for Yosemite camping is: book well in advance on Recreation.gov! Most reservable sites are snatched up months ahead.
- Embrace Spontaneity (with caution!): My last-minute trip worked out, but always have backup plans, especially in a place as popular and wild as Yosemite.
Despite the shaky start with camping and the ranger, my Yosemite weekend and Half Dome adventure was an unforgettable experience. The raw beauty of the park, the physical challenge, and the camaraderie with fellow hikers like Blake made it truly special.
